The Fremont Diner in Sonoma is truly a diner.  But one with farm-to-table fresh ingredients – and housemade bacon.  I like that their food has a bit of a Southern flair. And the old truck parked outside definitely adds character to the experience. I love the indoor charm, as well. 

On a recent visit, we tried their slow-cooked beef brisket hash with fresh sage and an over-easy egg.  It was perfectly seasoned and the meat was fork-tender and full of flavor. 

Being quite particular about biscuits, I couldn’t wait to try theirs, fully expecting a less than satisfactory experience.  I was dead wrong!  Their biscuits were moist, flaky and tender, with crispy edges.  Pretty perfect – and a great accompaniment to their housemade bacon. 

Slow-roasted pork BBQ is also a Southern treat about which I am particular.  Theirs did not disappoint me.  The sandwich was quite generous in size, and the meat was cooked to perfection – falling apart tender.  And the sauce was good, too.  The bun was slightly thick for me, but overall, it was a great sandwich. 

I topped it off with a dish of collard greens.  Theirs had a nice spiciness and vinegar finish – really good.  

The indoor dining space is small, but there is a huge space for outdoor dining, given good weather conditions. 

The Fremont Diner is located between Sonoma and Napa on Highway 121.

This was a year filled with extraordinary food and beverage adventures.  It was difficult to narrow down a “Best of the Best” list, but here are my picks for 2011:

Best Overall Coffee Experience: Roasting beans and doing a comparative tasting with Scott Miller, owner of Ogeechee River Coffee Company, Savannah, Georgia.

Best new chocolate confection chef: Chris Kollar of Kollar Chocolates in Yountville, California.  Especially love his passion fruit, coconut and peanut butter chocolates.

Best foraging adventure on a farm: La Petraia in Radda in Chianti, Italy, with owner and chef, Susan McKenna Grant.  Foraging was followed by a cooking class and lunch that featured our foraged ingredients!

Best wine harvest experience: Goosecross Cellars, Napa, California. Was such a learning experience to follow Winemaker Geoff Gorsuch during the pressing and crushing of the grapes for their Viognier wine.

Best new chocolate bar: Askinosie Chocolate, Springfield, Missouri.  I absolutely adore their new single-origin bar made with cacao beans from Honduras.

Best organic olive oil discovery: Castelas’ Biologique Olive Oil, Les Baux de Provence, France.  Grassy, aromatic, spicy and delicious.  This is a perfect finishing oil.

Best dish using brussel sprouts: Bottega Restaurant, Napa Valley, California.  Their new crispy brussel sprout salad is phenomenal.  I was upset that they took their shaved brussel sprout salad off the menu but this new salad is truly superior – so full of flavor and crunch!

Best new diner: The Fremont Diner in Sonoma, California.  Farm-to-table, Southern-inspired dishes such as BBQ pork sandwich, collard greens and housemade biscuits.

Best sugar discovery: Wasanban from Shikoku, Japan.  Wasanban is a very fine-grained sugar that is made from a thin sugar cane plant grown in Shikoku.  A friend in Japan sent it to me.  I have been using it to sprinkle on dessert crepes and cookies and to sweeten tea.  I love its delicate texture and sweet flavor.

Best affogato (gelato with a shot of espresso): Poggio in Sausalito, California.  They dress their affogatos up with slices of toasted almonds and candied orange peel.  Exquisite!

Best caramels: Jacques Genin in Paris, France.  These caramels melt in your mouth and dance on your tongue.  The flavors are rich and the texture is perfect.

Best wine education experience: Les Printemps de Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France.  Was there in April for a tasting of grenache wines from several different soil types and microclimates within the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation.

Best new artisanal salt: Jacobsen Hand-Harvested Pure Sea Salt from Netarts Bay, Oregon.  This salt has a wonderful crunch and a bright, clean flavor.  Excellent finishing salt.

Best hamburger in San Francisco: 4505 Meats, San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.  Haven’t tried every hamburger in town yet, but this was my favorite of the ones that I tried this year.

Looking forward to discovering what new “Bests” 2012 will bring!

Note: Top photo taken by Oliver Seidel and Nicky Stich of deliciousdays.com.

Meyer lemons are abundant year-round on my trees in Sausalito.  I try not to waste a single lemon.  I give a lot of them away as gifts to friends and neighbors, and I look for new ways in which to preserve these treasures.

I started making Meyer lemon marmalade several years back, and it has now become very popular with my friends.  In order to keep the rinds from becoming too chewy, it is important to add an equal amount of water to the mix.  In fact, I use a 1:1:1 ratio – chopped Meyer lemons:water:sugar.

This marmalade is especially good with freshly-made scones.

It also goes well with goat cheese.  I simply spread some crusty bread with fresh goat cheese and then spread Meyer lemon marmalade over the top.  It is always a hit!

Ingredients
8 cups Meyer lemons, thinly chopped (approx. 16 lemons)
8 cups water
8 cups sugar

You will also need:
Chef’s knife
Large pot, such as a Dutch oven
Large spoon
Skimmer
Candy thermometer
Large open pan for sterilizing jars
6-7clean jars with new lids and rings
Canner
Jar tongs
Kitchen towel
Canning funnel, clean and sterilized
Paper towels
Regular tongs

Instructions

Place the chopped Meyer lemons, water and sugar into a large pot.  Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.  Reduce the heat and cook at a medium boil, stirring frequently to keep from sticking.  Skim any foam from the top. Continue to cook until the marmalade reaches 220^oF or until thickened.

Meanwhile, put about an inch of water in the bottom of a large open pan.  Add the clean jars, open top down.  Bring to a slow simmer and let the jars cook for at least 10 minutes.  Keep hot.

Put enough water into the canner to completely cover your jars by about an inch.  Put it on a back burner and bring to a boil.

When the marmalade is ready, remove a jar from the hot skillet using the jar tongs and place the jar upright onto a kitchen towel.  Place a funnel into the jar.  Ladle the hot marmalade into the jar until it is almost full.  Leave about ¼” of space at the top.  Wipe the rim of the jar with a paper towel (a damp paper towel works best).

Drop one of the lids into the skillet with the hot jars and leave it there for about 30 seconds.

Remove the lid from the water with tongs and place it on top of the jar filled with marmalade.  Place a ring on the jar and tighten it.

Repeat until all of the marmalade has been ladled into the jars.  Gently place each jar into the canner (the water should be hot by now).

Cover the canner and bring the water to a boil.  Reduce the heat slightly and boil the jars for at least 5 minutes.  I typically do it for 7 minutes.

Turn off the heat underneath the canner.  Remove the jars from the water, dry them off and place them on the countertop to cool.  You should hear the lids pop within a few minutes.  If the jar is sealed, the lid dips slightly in the middle.  If the lid sticks up in the middle, then the jar has not sealed and the marmalade should be refrigerated and consumed within a week.

Be careful with the marmalade until it completely cools – don’t shake it around much.

Makes about 6 (8 oz.) jars of sunny marmalade.

Note: Several photos courtesy of McArdle Images.

There is just something about the flavor of cardamom that makes a super pairing with espresso.  This ice cream is very simple to make.  It is made in the same style in which we made ice cream when I was growing up on my grandmother’s farm in rural Georgia – with fresh cream, milk, sugar and natural ingredients, but no eggs.  It is rich and creamy and intensely flavored!  My obsession with the cardamom ice cream affogato came to me a few months back while at Oxbow Market in Napa.   I spotted cardamom ice cream at the Three Twins Ice Cream shop.  Since it is right across from Ritual Coffee, I asked the Ritual folks to put a shot of espresso in the bowl.   I liked it so much that I started experimenting with making cardamom ice cream at home. 
 

Ingredients
1 cup cream
1 vanilla bean
1/2 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds (I buy whole seeds and crush them myself using a pestle and mortar.)
4 green cardamom pods (optional)
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup whole milk

Espresso shots for serving

You will also need:
Small saucepan
Paring knife
Large spoon
Ice cream maker (I use a Cuisinart ice cream with a compressor in it).
Pint-sized freezer-safe container with tight-fitting lid
Espresso maker
Ice cream scoop
Glasses or dishes for serving affogato

Instructions
Pour the cream into a saucepan and place over medium heat.  Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the cream.  Drop the vanilla bean into the cream, as well. 

Add the crushed cardamom seeds, the cardamom pods and the sugar. Mix well.  When the mixture starts getting bubbles on the sides (just before a full boil), turn off the heat, cover the mixture and let it sit for about 20 minutes for the flavors to infuse.  

Remove the vanilla bean halves and the green cardamom pods.  Add the milk.  Cover and place into the refrigerator to cool for at least an hour.  

Remove the mixture from the refrigerator and pour into the container of your ice cream maker.  Freeze the mixture according to the instructions for your machine. 

Remove the ice cream from the machine, place into a freezer-safe container with a tigh-fitting lid and place into the freezer.  The ice cream will need to freeze to a firm consistency.  I find that overnight is best.
   

Makes 1 pint of ice cream.

To make the affogato, remove the ice cream from the freezer.  Using an ice cream scoop, scoop out a serving of ice cream and place it into a dish.  Pour a shot of hot espresso over the ice cream.  Serve immediately.

A friend just delivered a surplus of figs – perfect for making fig chutney!  This chutney is a delicious compliment to slow-roasted pork and duck confit.  It really adds zip to hamburgers, as well.  I use Sherry vinegar in the recipe because I like the distinctive, nutty flavor it brings, but you can use your favorite red wine vinegar.   This chutney needs to cook for a couple of hours in order to maximize flavors and to reach a consistency that is not runny.  It will be worth the time involved.  You can either make a smaller batch, refrigerate it and eat it within a couple of weeks, or preserve this chutney in jars (in a water bath)  to keep on the shelf. 

Ingredients
5 cups red wine vinegar, such as Sherry vinegar
3 cups light brown sugar
1 large onion, chopped
2 Tablespoons fresh ginger, grated
Zest of 1 lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 stick cinnamon
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
3 lbs figs, cut into quarters

You will also need:
Large pot
Large spoon
Scale for weighing figs

If preserving in jars:
Large skillet for sterilizing empty jars
Water
8 oz. or smaller jars (your preference) with lids and rings
Tongs
Kitchen towel
Large canning pot for water bath

Instructions
Combine the vinegar, sugar, onion, ginger, zest, mustard seeds, cloves, allspice, cinnamon and salt in a large pot and bring to a boil. 

Reduce heat to medium and cook for about an hour until the mixture is reduced to about 1/3.  It should be starting to thicken. 

Add the sliced figs.  Turn the heat up to medium high and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to medium.

Cook for about an hour, stirring frequently, until thick like preserves.  The chutney should be a deep brown at this point. 

Remove the cinnamon stick and discard it.  The chutney is ready to serve. 

If you are preserving the chutney for later, then follow these directions for preparing and filling the jars and processing them in a water bath.

Prepare at least five 8oz. jars by first making sure they are very clean.  I like to take them directly from the hot dishwasher.  Place about 2 cups of water into a large saute pan and bring to a boil.  Place the jars, bottom side up, into the skillet. Reduce the heat and simmer with the jars in there for about 10 minutes.   Keep hot.

When the chutney has finished cooking, ladle it while still hot into the hot jars (careful – these jars are HOT), leaving only about 1/4″ of space at the top of the jar.  Wipe the rim of the jar with a damp paper towel.

Note that it is important to seal each jar before starting on the next one.  Before putting the lid onto each jar, drop the lid into the boiling water in the saute pan for 30 seconds.

Remove the lid from the water and place it on top of the hot jar with the chutney.  Put the ring on and twist tightly to seal.  Repeat with each jar until all of the chutney is in the jars.  If you have a little bit of chutney left over, then put it into a dish, cover it with plastic wrap and have it with your lunch the next day.

Meanwhile, prepare your water bath by heating enough water in the super large pot to cover your jars. Gently place the jars into the water.  Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to a medium-low boil, and cook the jars of chutney for 7 minutes.

Remove the jars from the water, dry them off and store them on the countertop.  Check them a little later to make sure that the lids have sealed.  If so, store them in a cool, dry place.  If not, then put them into the refrigerator and use within two weeks.  You can also freeze them for later use.

Harvest is such an exciting time in Napa Valley’s wine country. 

Last Saturday I was invited to spend the morning with winemaker and co-owner of Goosecross Cellars, Geoff Gorsuch, and his team as they pressed Viognier grapes and started the process of making their 2011 Viognier wine.

When I arrived, there were a number of bins of Viognier grapes there already.  They had been picked earlier that day in the Oak Knoll vineyards.  The grapes were a gorgeous shade of green with hints of russet.  Their skins were slightly tough and the grapes were sweet to the taste. 

After the harvesting of the grapes, the next step in the process was to remove the stems.  This process is called de-stemming.  This was done by transferring the bins of grapes via forklift to the de-stemming machine. 

The clusters of grapes were dropped into the de-stemming machine. 

The grapes were rotated through the machine as the stems were removed. 

The stems were spit out of the bottom of the machine, and the grapes were transferred over to a bladder press (the next step in the process).

Once inside the bladder press, the grapes were gently pressed to extract their juices.

Since the skins on the Viognier grapes were a little tough, this process took longer than it would with red grapes, for example, that have thinner skins.  The juice was transferred into a large tank and the skins and seeds were turned out into a bin to be discarded. 

Once inside the tank, the juice will rest for a couple of days in order for the sediment to settle to the bottom.  

The next step in the process is racking - moving the juice off the sediment into a fermentation tank.  Once inside the fermentation tank, the juice will enjoy a slow, cool fermentation. 

I so enjoy a number of the Goosecross wines, but their Viognier is one of my favorites.  It is known for its floral aromas.  I discovered Goosecross’ Viognier a few years back and have been a huge fan ever since.  I love its notes of honeysuckle and pears, and its hints of peaches, pineapple and grapefruit.  It is meant to be consumed at a fairly young age. 

We are drinking Goosecross’ 2009 Viognier right now.  It is a great match for my Salad of Fresh Greens, Pears, Candied Pistachio Nuts and Honey Vinaigrette Dressing.  I also enjoy it with my Roasted Chestnut and Date-Stuffed Pork Loin . 

Colleen Topper, one of the owners of Goosecross Cellars, has developed some great recipes that pair well with the Goosecross Wines.  There are several for pairing with their Viognier.  Take a look at Colleen’s Kitchen for some excellent suggestions. 

Goosecross Cellars is a must-visit when you come to Napa Valley.  Their wines are extraordinary and they only sell directly to their customers.  You will love the tasting room experience and the warmth, friendliness and knowledge of everyone at Goosecross. 

Find out more about their story and about their amazing selection of wines at goosecross.com.

With autumn at our door, I’m trying to savor one last moment of summer with this double chocolate ice cream with salted toasted pecans.   In this dish, I used my favorite Askinosie chocolate - made in the USA in Springfield, Missouri.  The pecans are from my hometown in Georgia.  I seasoned them with fleur-de-sel sea salt that I picked up on my last Culinary Getaway to Provence.  The combination of ingredients in this ice cream yields a dessert that is deep, rich and luscious – sweet and savory.

Ingredients
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup cocoa powder
3 ounces (by weight) bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup whole milk
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 cup pecans
1/4 teaspoon fleur-de-sel sea salt plus extra for garnish

You will also need:
Medium saucepan
Large spoon
Immersible blender
Baking dish
Ice cream machine

Instructions
Heat the cream in a medium saucepan over medium high heat until bubbles form at the sides.  Turn off the heat.  Add the cocoa powder and the chopped chocolate.  Let stand for a couple of minutes to melt the chocolate. 

Add the sugar.  Stir well. 

Use an immersible blender to fully incorporate the chocolate and sugar into the cream. 

Add the milk and the vanilla.  Stir well. 

Place the mixture into the refrigerator to completely cool.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.   Add the pecans to a baking dish and roast in the oven for about 15-20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until they start to get a toasty aroma.  Be very careful, as they burn easily.  Remove from the oven and cool completely.

Chop the pecans coarsely and add 1/4 teaspoon fleur-de-sel sea salt to the chopped pecans.  Mix well.  Divide into two portions – 1/2 cup and 1/4 cup.

Remove the cream mixture from the refrigerator and add 1/2 cup of chopped toasted salted pecans.   Reserve 1/4 cup chopped pecans for later. 

Make the ice cream according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your ice cream machine.  Let ripen in the freezer for a few hours before serving. 

To serve, place the ice cream into festive dishes.  Top with a scattering of the reserved chopped pecans.  Sprinkle lightly with fleur-de-sel, if desired. 

Serves 4.

This coffee cake is so simple to make and is moist, crunchy and delicious.  I used olive oil and yogurt in this recipe instead of butter and milk.  You can use any fruit that is in season.  In this instance, I used fresh pears and blueberries.  Note that you don’t even need a mixer – you can mix it all by hand. 

Ingredients
2 cups plain flour (You can substitute 1/4 cup plain flour for 1/4 cup whole wheat flour, if desired.)
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil + extra for the baking pan (I use the “everyday” olive oil from California Olive Ranch)
1 cup Greek-style yogurt (I use 2% from Fage)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups fruit, peeled and coarsely-chopped (or whole, if using berries)

Topping:
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (I use the “everyday” olive oil from California Olive Ranch).
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
1/3 cup plain flour
1/3 cup oats
1/3 cup chopped pecans
1 pinch salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon

You will also need:
3 mixing bowls
Whisk
Large spoon
Medium baking dish

Instructions
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F/175 degrees Celcius.   Grease the baking pan with olive oil and set aside. 

Place the flour, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl.  Stir to combine.

Put the eggs and sugar into a second mixing bowl and beat with a whisk until creamy. 

Add the olive oil and yogurt.  Mix well.  

Add the flour mixture and the vanilla.  Stir well to incorporate. 

Add the fruit.  Stir to combine. 

Pour the mixture into the greased baking pan. 

Combine all of the topping ingredients until moist and crumbly. 

Sprinkle them over the top of the batter in the baking pan. 

Place the pan into the preheated oven and bake for about 45 minutes or until the cake bounces back when pressed in the center.   

Remove the cake from the oven and let it cool for 15 minutes before slicing.  Serve with vanilla-laced whipped cream, if desired. 

Serves 8. 

Note: Top photo courtesy of Sean McArdle.

Fresh French prunes are so delightful – in fact, they can be as sweet as candy.  They can be difficult to find, but Glashoff Farms had some this morning at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.  As soon as I saw them, a clafoutis started to bake inside my head.

Although the clafoutis is traditionally made with cherries, you can use almost any fruit that is in season.  This recipe is really simple and uses ingredients you probably have in your kitchen already.

Ingredients
Butter and sugar for the pan
About 1 pound of fresh French prunes, halved and pitted
4 eggs
1 1/2 cup whole milk
1/4 cup plain flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or your favorite liqueur
Pinch of fresh nutmeg
Powdered sugar for the top (optional)

You will also need:
Baking dish (1 1/2 quart size)
Mixing bowl
Whisk

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit/190 degrees Celsius.

Rub the pan with the butter and sprinkle the bottom with a thin layer of sugar.  Arrange the fruit in the bottom of the pan.

Using a whisk, whip the milk and the eggs together until well-combined, about 1 minute.  Add the flour and the sugar and stir together briefly.  Add the vanilla (or liqueur) and the nutmeg.

Pour the liquid over the fruit in the pan.

Bake for approximately 35 minutes or until the center is set.  Remove from the oven and let cool.

Sprinkle with powdered sugar just before serving.

Serves 6-8.

This dish features some of nature’s best produce – super sweet Sungold tomatoes, sweet red onions and arugula.  These fresh ingredients, combined with your favorite toasted bread cubes and a sweet-tart vinaigrette, create a salad you will want to have several times a week.  Some of the sweetest and best Sungold tomatoes can be found at the farm stand of Everything Under the Sun at the SF Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

Ingredients
2 cups favorite bread cut into 1″ cubes (I use rustic bread from Della Fattoria.)
2-3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (I use California Olive Ranch’s everyday olive oil for this.)
1 small sweet red onion, such as torpedo onions
1 small clove garlic, peeled
2 cups Sungold (or your favorite sweet cherry) tomatoes
1 handful of arugula
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh basil

Vinaigrette:
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (I use Miller’s Blend or Arbequina from California Olive Ranch.)
1 Tablespoon white balsamic vinegar (You can substitute a favorite dark balsamic if you don’t have white.)
2 large pinches Fleur de sel sea salt
Freshly-cracked pepper

You will also need:
Large baking sheet
Large salad bowl
Cutting board
Chef’s knife
Small bowl for mixing vinaigrette
Large spoon

Instructions
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.

Toss the bread cubes with 2-3 Tablespoons olive oil and roast in the oven for 8-10 minutes until crispy and browned.  Remove when toasted.

Meanwhile, slice the onion into very thin slices and put into the bottom of the salad bowl.  Slice the garlic into thin slices and add that to the bowl (be sure to remove the green shoot in the middle, if present).  Slice the Sungold tomatoes in half and add them to the bowl.

Add the arugula and the chopped basil to the bowl.

Add the toasted bread cubes to the bowl.

Meanwhile, mix together the vinaigrette ingredients in a small bowl.

Pour over the top of the salad.   Toss gently.  Serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a starter salad.